Wednesday morning we bumped our heads one final time in our hobbit house went down the creaky flights of stairs, passed by the leaning tower of pisa one last time, grabbed another croissant at Po'sto and then caught our train to Florence and then from Florence to Rome. The first one was a regional train which means first come first serve with seats. We were a little squished with our bags until a few people got off and then we were able to sit in a 4 seater spot and give our bags a chair. We got to the station and had plenty of time to catch our connecting train to Rome. We had seats with a table in between so that made Tyler happy. We also got snacks and drinks.
Once at Rome we took the 12 min walk to our airbnb. There are lots of hills in Rome, it's not so flat of a walk and there were even some stairs. Our bnb looked nice but it ended up not being super comfortable- the bed was hard, there was no real space to spread out our things, no comfy place to sit, the heater was noisy and though it had a washer and dryer, they were noisy, and made our clothes smell a bit funny. So we didn't love it but the guy who owns it and came to check us in was very nice. And we were not only close to the train station, but we were only a 15 min walk from the colosseum which was nice.
After taking a little break, we went and got pizza at Trieste Pizza. We both got pizza with sausages and other things. Tyler's pizza also had potatoes on it. They were both really good. The cashier had a very big personality and asked everyone where they are from and called "Michigan" when our order was ready. We probably should have gotten some more pizza because we were still a little hungry after but we fixed that hunger by getting some gelato at Geletaria SM Maggiore. So good!
Then we took a walk to the colosseum as the sun was going down. We called the kids while we there. It really is something to see in real life.
Later we walked to Pastificio Guerra for some spaghetti carbonara to go. We had to walk through a very long tunnel and past some fancy shops to get there. I thought the spaghetti carbonara was delicious (bits of bacon and buttery noodles) but it was not Tyler's thing. The only bummer was there were no tables so we had to eat it while standing in the sidewalk, slightly messy. Afterwards we took a leisurely walk back to our bnb. Literally everywhere you walk, you will see something amazing- a fountain, a statue, a beautiful church, neat trees, ruins.... it's a beautiful, unique place.
Thursday morning we were up early to meet out tour group to the see the colosseum under ground tunnels. The ticket said to get there 30 mins early or they might leave you so of course I got us there 45 mins early. That was dumb. They did not leave until the actual ticketed time (9am) so we just sat there waiting for everyone. Then they led us to a spot, gave us a ticket, pointed out where we should get in line ("behind that van") and told us to find gate 2 to meet our guide. Kind of lame that they didn't actually take us in because the meeting spot was a little tricky and one family got lost for a minute and Tyler had to go help them out.
After a little more waiting, the tour to the underground began. It was nice because it was really just our group down there so it wasn't super peopley, but our guide was hard to understand because she had a thick accent. She showed us how the gladiators would come from their practice field into the tunnels and then take a lift up to the arena. She explained to us that the colosseum was never actually called the colosseum when it was used, it was more likely called the Flavian Amphitheater or Caesars Amphitheater. We also learned that gladiators didn't typically fight to the death and that the animals were actually more likely used for a hunting show. It was really neat to be in the tunnels them at floor level and then an upper level. We got rained on for a short bit while in the underground (it's not completely covered). Overall it was a cool experience but I wasn't super impressed with the guide. I think we could have read the stuff on the plaques. I think the biggest benefit of a guide was that you got skip the big lines and got to be away from the crowds a bit.
After that we met back at our original spot and then were taken to the Roman Forum. I honestly forgot that our tour included this. Once again we had a guide with a thick accent and she was a bit abrasive. And once again the biggest perk of having a guide seemed to be that we got to skip the long lines to get in. When we were in the forum she did a bit of a rush tour with superficial information. We didn't really learn anything too interesting but the ruins were cool to see. During the tour, she lost a family and never did find them.... After the tour we would've liked to stay longer but I had booked us a visit to the crypts so we had to leave so we would have time for lunch. Not too long after we left it started really raining and since it was all outside, it was probably good we left.
For lunch we grabbed pizza at Trieste again. We thought we were getting the favorite of the 2 we had got last time but ended up with something totally different, but still good. We ate it back at our bnb so we could get ready for our next outing.
Next we went to the Capuchin Crypt. It was raining heavily at that point so we had our raincoats and umbrellas as we walked the 20 minutes to it. The only thing that got wet on me was the bottom of my wide leg pants. I should've worn my skinny leggings. When we got there we had to wait outside until it opened. Once again, no benefits from being early. And then the doors opened and we waited some more, still outside in the rain. After a bit of time of waiting, someone passed by us with tickets, and we realized we could bypass the line as well since we had tickets. Wish we would've realized this sooner because the rain was bad.
For the Museum of the Capuchin Crypt we had an audio guide- like a little mp3 player with headphones. There were numbers around the museum and you would just push in the number to hear about the things nearby. I liked this system of a guide. We could go at our own pace, and the voice was clear and easy to understand. The only issue is sometimes my distractable brain wanders. The beginning talked about the order of the Friars and then explained that when they came upon a bunch of bones that were exhumed from somewhere they decided to turn the bones into this sort of art to show that death isn't scary because of the gift our Savior gave us. I personally think someone went a little crazy when presented with a large pile of bones.
It was still raining when we got out of the museum. We walked back to our bnb and took a bit of a break before we went in search of food. We ended up at Fuorinorma. We were able to sit down at a table and eat which is always a rarity in these small places. I got a panini that actually had crispy bacon and an artichoke sauce on it. It was pretty good.
Friday was our day to go to Pompeii. I had reserved us a train to Naples first and then we were going to have to figure out how to get from there to Pompeii. It was a tight window to get there in time for our guided tour so of course I was feeling a bit anxious. We picked up breakfast on our way (I got a Maritozzo from Regoli Pasticceria- a cream filled bun so delish). We apparently walked in the back way to the Roma Termini Station and had to weave our way to the center of it so we could find out what platform we would end up at. It was a large station and although we didn't have assigned seats for this train ride, we had no problem finding seats.
The second leg of this trip- from Naples to Pompeii- was a bit of a disaster. We were unsure if we were at the right platform and decided last minute it was probably the wrong one so we rushed to a different one in a totally different area. I am still unsure if the first one would have taken us to where we needed to be but the second one did end up getting us there. The train was crammed (we had to stand the whole ride) and it was running behind schedule, but we made it just in time for our guided tour. I was expecting it to be another group tour since that was what we signed up for and so I headed towards a small group of people that were starting to head inside but before we reached the group there was a woman standing with a sign. I didn't think she was our guide so I just asked her where we were at and she asked me if I was Jennifer. Lucky us, we were the only ones to sign up for the group tour with her so we had her all to ourselves. She was nice and let us grab a snack from a shop and take a bathroom break before we got started (honestly she let us do that because she needed a smoke break). Then we got started. There were no lines so we walked right in and I love that Pompeii is so big (roughly 170 acres) because despite the squished train to get there, it did not feel peopley in Pompeii at all.
I am glad we had a tour guide because she was full of good information and knew how to get us to all the important spots. Otherwise we might have been lost and we would not have known what we were looking at. She took us to the arena there and talked about how Madonna had done a show there for her close friends.
She showed us how to know if something was a shop (many sold food buffet style) or a house, and explained that all these places used to be colorful inside and out but much of the colors have faded due to being out in the elements. We also learned that blue was the most expensive color to make. She showed us the homes and how they were able to recreate the gardens that were in the center of homes because the holes and seeds for the plants were still there. We saw sleeping rooms where people huddled together to rest and learned that meal time was so special that they would eat a meal, purge, and then eat some more.
She talked about how Pompeii was discovered (a farmer found it under 20 ft of ash) and how it was like a lasagna and they were constantly finding new layers of things. She showed us graffiti from political campaigns and one graffiti that was a rebuttal to a statement about love. We also learned how people would engrave a penis on their house to show power,wealth and posterity.
We saw a lot of beautiful mosaic floors and saw the terracotta piping system that they used. We saw a large market, many buffet style shops, and the Roman baths.
We even got to see some archeological uncovering being done- that was cool because the colors were still in tact (but you couldn't take pictures there). She told us how they found in one of the ovens, bread that had been being baked and how it was even stamped with the bakers seal.
At one point she let us take a break to eat (since she needed a smoke break). Tyler and I had sandwiches and he fed some of his meat to one of the many cats that roamed Pompeii. They all look very healthy- probably because of people like him. Then the cat looked at me so sadly that I also fed it some of my sandwich.
We also saw the sad plaster castings from the bones that were found in Pompeii. They were not very tall people based on the castings. We learned that after the first explosion of Mt Vesuvius some people left but they expected to be able to come back. No one expected that it would become buried in ash. One man had even hid his coins in a bowl in his restaurant.
After our tour was done we didn't stay too much longer- it really is a tricky place to navigate by yourself and plus we needed to catch a train. It was another very warm and squished train ride from Pompeii to Naples- standing room only. But the train from Naples to Rome was much more comfortable and we were able to sit.
Tyler was obsessed with getting the pizza we had gotten the first time at Trieste so he insisted we go again for dinner. This time we got the right pizza. And this time it did not settle well with me. This was the first time since we had left to Italy that my bowels gave me issues. To be honset, I felt very lucky that I had done so well for so much of the trip.
Saturday we had an early morning. We had to get to the Vatican Museums by 7:30am. These early morning tours were a little bit of a bummer while being on vacation but totally worth it. Things are way less crowded Our bus ride to the Vatican was nice and empty, and we were able to sit. Once we got to the museum we found the line that appeared to be ours. In the end we had to hop ourselves over one line to the left but that was easily done and our wait time wasn't too bad. Once we were inside we easily found where to go for our tour. I had booked a tour through the Vatican which I think was a good way to go.
Our tour guide was fairly easy to understand and gave us some good information about things but she kind of zoomed through everything- probably because she had limited time to show us all the things. We learned about the Vatican and how hard it was to get citizenship to the Vatican. Then we learned about statues. We learned that if there was a lot of hair on a statue and beard it was probably of a philosopher. If it had a short hair cut it was probably an Emperor. We also learned how there was an era where private parts were considered inappropriate so many penises were cut off or covered on statues. We also learned that they were stored somewhere and eventually they got glued back on. We even saw a statue that had been hit by lightening so it was considered sacred. It seemed like every inch of the museum was covered in artwork of some kind. Tyler particularly liked when we found dragons in the artwork. The map room was also pretty neat, impressive that they were able to give such detailed and accurate maps without the technology we have today.








The guide did not take us into the Sistine chapel because it is supposed to be quiet in the chapel so she gave us some information before we went in. We learned that it took teams of painters to paint the panels on the walls but Michelangelo worked on his own on the ceiling and that there was a panel he finished in just one day. We also learned again that the color blue is expensive so that any time you see it in a painting you need to keep in mind that special permission was needed to use it. I thought it was cool that many of the women were in blue. Inside the chapel you are not allowed to take pictures but it is amazing to see in person and on a less respectful note, Tyler happened to notice that Michelangelo painted God's bum in the picture of the creation of plants and animals. Something I never noticed before.
After we finished at the Sistine Chapel, we went in search of bathrooms and food. We ended up finding a little cafe in the lower level and I got a sandwich that was just meat and cheese but the bread was so good it made it taste extra special. And after having tummy issues the night before, I needed something plan like that.
When we finished eating we wandered through the gift shops and then headed out. We decided to go check out St. Peter's Basilica since it has free admission but the line was insane and we decided it was not worth the wait. It was cool to see the place where the Pope addresses his peeps though.
We had no other plans for the day so we decided to walk back to our bnb rather than taking the bus again. There was a castle on our way and we decided if there wasn't a big line, we could stop there. In front of the castle there was a man singing opera. That was fun. We got lucky at Castel Sant-angelo because the line for tickets was very short, so we decided to go in. We bought the audio guide because we have found that to be a good deal but the lame thing about this one was it didn't come with headphones. Just a player with a speaker you held by your ear. We probably could have shared it.
The castle was nothing spectacular but it had really great views at the top so I think it was worth the stop. It also had a giant treasure chest that was pretty awesome.










After the castle we plugged in some stores into Googlemaps that I was interested in shopping at and hit those on our walk back. We also walked into some random chapels and saw some cool fountains as we walked. It's nice sometimes to have flexibility to just wander. The stores we ended up was a Murano glass store (because I had regretted not getting some things when we were in Venice) and some shops with journals. The lady at the glass shop was very helpful and seemed a little desperate for a buy or was just worried that I might steal something? She ushered me around the whole time. Slightly awkward but luckily for her I planned to buy something. We ended up getting some little glass animals, a glass ornament and a glass ring. She gave us $5 off our order because I gave her good reviews online. The journal shop we ended up loving was called Manufactured in Italy. They had beautiful leather journals with engravings. I was very impressed with all their things and we got the girls journals. I wanted to buy so much more but resisted the temptation.
Our last planned stop on our walk home was Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II. We had seen it from the top of the castle and it looked quite grand so we thought we should see it in person. At this point, Tyler needed to pee so he was not interested in climbing the many steps to find a bathroom. Instead we took some pictures and then finished the walk to our bnb so he could use the bathroom. There are not many public bathrooms to be found in Rome.
For dinner that night, we ended up getting Korean food at Starbaps. Tyler really isn't too into pasta and I needed a break from pizza. I basically got a meat and rice bowl with veggies and it was a really nice change.